Tuesday, February 22, 2011

And that's why I love craft beer.

This past week was relatively uneventful for me in the realm of beer, so I am going to share a story with you. This story is about events currently unfolding in the craft beer world. This story is just one example of how the community of craft beer is a strong one, and will support their fellow brewers and craft beer fans at a moments notice.

There is a brewery in Minnesota called Surly Brewing Company. You may have heard of it, or probably have not. They've been in business for 5 years now, and only distribute in Minnesota and New York. The brewery was started by Omar Ansari in a warehouse in the industrial district of Brooklyn Center, Minnesota. Interestingly enough, just to become a brewery, they already had to change a law on the books. As told in their "History" page on their website, this doesn't get much mention, so it must've been a very minor hurdle. This was only a hurdle in their city, since they share Minnesota with other breweries such as August Schell, Summit, Town Hall, Fitger's, and Flat Earth, to name a few.

Since starting five years ago, Surly has rapidly grown in popularity. Most of their beers can be found in the higher ranks on RateBeer and Beer Advocate. Of course, when someone brews great beer, word gets out, and more people want to try this "great beer." Surly started distributing to New York last year, after being open for only 5 years, and their business in 2010 increased by 32% over 2009. They must be doing something right.

Living in Colorado, the "Napa Valley of Beer," it's easy for me to forget that not every state has as beer and brewery-friendly laws as we do. It appears to be easy for breweries to cross the lines from only selling pints and growlers at the brewery to distributing kegs to local bars and restaurants to selling their beer in liquor stores and back again. I'm not claiming to be familiar with the nuances of Colorado or Denver liquor and beer laws, but the observation stands that it appears relatively easy. Minnesota doesn't have it quite so easy.

Currently, the Minnesota laws state that breweries that produce under 3,500 barrels a year are classified as "brewpubs," and can sell beer on-site to customers, but not distribute to liquor stores. Breweries over 3,500 barrels can no longer distribute their beer on-site. I'm sure that people can still come visit the breweries, take their tours, and talk about beer. They just can't have a pint there afterward. No growlers, bottles, or cans either.

Not to be judgmental, but I can't imagine how much of a bummer that must be. Imagine going to a popular brewery, such as Odell's, Oskar Blues, Avery, Great Divide, Bristol, or a wealth of other breweries whose production is above 3,500 barrels a year. Imagine meeting friends and strangers alike there, comforted knowing that everyone has been drawn there to share the art and enjoyment of craft beer. Imagine taking the brewery tour, talking with the employees, talking with the brewers, smell all of the smells that come along with beer being created. Imagine, then, that you have to leave, since you can't have a glass of their freshly created beer while visiting the brewery. That, to me, is unfair. Part of the art and culture of craft beer is being able to share it with people, being able to share it with everyone who wants to come see your brewery, and everyone that wants to buy it at their local liquor store and share it with their friends and family at home. Imagine going to an art show where all you can see it paint, paintbrushes, and canvases, and to see the finished art you have to go to your local art store. Imagine going to a restaurant, but you can only watch the chefs make food, and to buy it you have to go to the grocery store.

This "bummer" is where Surly is right now. Because of their growth, and the demand for their beer, Omar has created a vision for Surly Brewing Company. This vision is a twenty million dollar, 60,000 square foot brewery, restaurant, bar, beer garden, and event center, which will draw beer fans and tourists alike to the destination. The bummer: the vision, as it currently stands, is illegal in Minnesota. So, naturally, Surly has taken to the streets, calling out to their fans to help change the law so that they can follow through with their dream. Their call to action appears to be working, with the help of friends and allies.

This is what Surly's new facility will look like

There is a liquor store in St. Louis Park, Minnesota. Not just any liquor store, a beer store. They carry only beer. The name of this store is The Four Firkins (how fitting, right?), and they are one-of-a-kind in Minnesota, and I'm having a hard time thinking of any similar place in the country. The Four Firkins is like every craft-beer-lover's dream. They have nothing but shelves and shelves of craft beer. Not only do they have an enormous selection of really really good beer, but they also share it. They have weekly beer tastings, at the very least, which will leave in their wake an impressive display of empty bottles. Often times, the owner, Jason Alvey, will pop open a bottle of beer simply because a customer is curious about it and wants to taste it before they buy it. Was I wrong about "every craft-beer-lover's deam?" I didn't think so. Oh, I can't forget to mention that they're also trying to get a Minnesota law changed, so that they can sell Four Firkins-branded apparel at their store. Seems like craft beer in Minnesota is having quite a battle these days.

Being that Surly Brewing Company and The Four Firkins (henceforth known as "the Firk" because I'm tired of typing their full name) reside in the same state, it's only natural for them to be battle brethren. This past Friday, the Firk held an event to get signatures in support of amending the law in favor of Surly. They were offering tastes of Surly brew as an incentive, and it worked. They rounded up 300+ signatures, and most of the main cast of Surly Brewing Company dropped by to support the event as well. What a party that must've been, with all of that supportive energy in the air. I can only imagine how proud both Jason Alvey and the Surly brew crew must've been to see all of those fans of craft beer out to support their cause.

That momentum has had an effect; a bill has been created for Surly. This bill is now being lobbied, and even stands a chance at becoming a law. That would be a great and proud moment for not just Omar and his crew at Surly, but for Jason Alvey at the Firk, and all of the craft beer community in Minnesota. Honestly, I'd be proud too, and I'm sure that Surly has friends around the country that would be very happy for them. That's what I love about the craft beer community; it's not about who's beer is better (okay, at GABF it is), but it's about sharing the love for the art that is craft beer with everyone else who is even remotely interested in it. It's about supporting everyone else who is pursuing their passion in creating wonderful beer to share with everyone else. It's about sitting down at a dinner party full of wine drinkers and sharing a beer with them that makes them say "Wow!" It's about soaking up the vibrant, jovial environment of camaraderie at your local tap house, brewpub, or brewery tap room. It's about finding that crazy rare beer and sharing it with a few of your closest beer buddies. It's about watching the process of beer being created, from making a stew from precious malted grains to the bewildering microbiological spectacle that is fermentation to adding crazy ingredients like pink peppercorns and chili peppers, and finding inspiration in every minute of it.

And that's why I love craft beer.

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